Choosing the right ski length depends on a mix of different factors. On a basic level, height, weight and ability should give you a good idea of what length of ski you should go for.

As a rule of thumb, start with a ski around nose to eyebrow level height. If you are just starting out, or at an intermediate level, then we suggest that you take some length off. If you’re a more advanced/expert skier, then we suggest you should push your ski length towards your full height or even further. If you are heavier than the average weight for your size, feel free to add some ski length as well.

The terrain you ski and the type of skiing you do will also dictate what size ski will be best for you. Generally, on-trail and park skiing is made more fun by a slightly shorter ski because it will be lighter, have a shorter turn radius and feel more manageable on hard snow and in the air. If you’re focus is set more firmly on skiing pow and freeride, then a longer ski is going to ensure you have more surface area and therefore a better float in fresh snow, as well as extra stability at higher speeds through tracked snow.

Go towards the shorter side of our range if you’re choosing a narrower ski and will spend most of your time on hard snow. 

Go towards the longer side if you’re skiing fast and aggressively in off-piste conditions.

For a mix of the two, choose a ski somewhere in between. 

If you’re still unsure after reading this size guide, please get in touch with us on our live chat and we’ll be happy to find the right length for you! 

Waist Width and Ski Type 

85-90mm  

On-Trail Skis

DC1.0, PRD 1.0, PRM 1.0

You’re focused on the downhill and need a ski to rip groomers and hard snow conditions with. A narrower waist width is easier to throw from edge to edge between turns, allowing you to flow seamlessly between arcs. If you’re sticking to groomers most of the time, it’s a good idea to go with a ski around nose height: it’s going to be lighter, have a shorter turn radius and feel more playful on hard snow. 

Park Skis

CT 1.0, CT 2.0, PRD 1.0, Ambit

The park is calling your name. A shorter ski, around nose-height, is going to facilitate technical tricks, with lots of spins and changes of direction. A longer ski, eye-level or above, is going to give you more ski to pop and press with- choose this option if your style requires less spin and more butter. You’re probably going to be skiing switch a fair deal and therefore mounting your skis closer to ski-centre. Take this into consideration when choosing your ski length as it means you’re already going to be losing a bit of ski in front of you, meaning less stability at high speeds.

90-96mm

All Mountain Piste (downhill)

PRD 1.0, DC 1.0, PRD2.0, PRM 2.0, Heroine

You’re the first one to carve up the corduroy in the morning before getting after the side-tracked goodies later on. You need a setup that can handle speed and varying snow conditions. Choose a ski around mouth to eyebrow-level height for maximum control and great turn sensations. Choose a slightly longer length for extra stability if you plan to take it into choppier conditions more often. 

All Mountain Freeride ski (downhill)

DC 2.0, PRM 2.0

Hard snow is your bread and butter but you don’t miss a chance to ski crud and bumps when you can. Eye-level to head-height is going to be the right length option for you. Still super manageable and fun on groomers while offering you enough stability to turn a piste day into a freeride day.

95-104mm 

All Mountain Freestyle

CT 2.0, PRD 2.0, Heroine

Top to bottom, whether it’s park kickers, popping off rollers or carving down pistes and tight treelines, you want a playful, freestyle-inspired ski that’s not going to hold you back anywhere. A length around eye-level to head height is going to give you enough to ski to pop and flex with as well as well as hold an edge at higher speeds.  

All Mountain Powder

PRD 3.0, PRM 3.0, ProdigyW

You’re always on the lookout for the untouched gems but need a ski that’s going to perform on the more frequent, ordinary days. Eye-level to head-height is going to be the right ski length option for you. Still super manageable and fun on piste whilst also offering you enough surface area to tear up the fresher stuff with control when it comes your way. 

Freeride ski (downhill)

DC 2.0, DC 3.0

It might not have snowed in a couple of weeks, but that’s not going to stop you from straight-lining that couloir. If you like to ski fast and aggressively off-piste, no matter the conditions, choose an eye-level to head-height ski. Still super manageable and fun on groomers while offering you enough stability to turn any day into a freeride day.

104-125mm

Powder All Mountain

CT 3.0, PRD 4.0, DC 3.0, PRM 3.0, PRM 4.0, ProdigyW, Supertonic

Pistes are just the bits in between the powder and freeride turns, right? Choose a ski around head-height to make sure you have enough surface area and stability to get after it when the conditions are right. This length is still going to be playful enough to make pistes fun, we promise. 

Powder/BC Freestyle ski

PRD 4.0, CT 3.0, CT 4.0

Whether you’re imitating One Of Those Days or are waist deep in the trees, you need a ski that floats in the deep stuff, doesn’t shy away from chopped up snow and loves being in the air. A head-height ski, with this type of waist width, is going to have more than enough surface area to float in the fluffaduff, be stable at high speed through the tracked-up stuff and feel nimble enough to trick in the air.

Big Mountain ski

DC 4.0, CT 4.0, DC 3.0, PRM 4.0, Supertonic

Eyes on the prize, you go after the biggest, burliest lines. That means you need enough ski to float in the deep snow, stomp big drops, stay stable on straight-lines and charge through the sluff-debris out the bottom. We suggest a ski taller than you if you want something that ticks all those boxes.

Camber and Rocker

We use varying blends of Camber and Rocker in all of our skis, with the idea that the right mix of both provides the best outcome for every ski. Rocker in the tip and tail ensures great float in fresh and choppy conditions as well as making turn initiation and washing out so much easier. Even a bit of rocker is going to make the ski feel as easy to turn as a traditionally cambered ski that is 5-10cms shorter. The camber underfoot is designed to give the ski great pop and energy, making it rebound between carving turns and pop better off jumps and rollers. Read more about Rocker and Camber below:

Camber

The traditional profile for skis is called Camber. If you lay a fully cambered ski flat on the floor, it’s tip and tail will be the only two points in contact with the ground. In between the tip and the tail will be a slight upward curve, with the middle of the ski being the point furthest away from the ground. Camber is great for edge hold and turn energy on groomed terrain as well as pop and landings. Fully cambered skis often require a more technically-advanced skier to control the turns properly and can end up feeling hooky. Full camber is also going to hinder float in deep snow.

Rocker

Rocker, also known as reverse-camber, as the name suggests, is the opposite of camber. Lay a fully rockered ski flat on the floor and you’ll see that the middle of the ski is touching the ground, whilst the rest of the ski arcs upwards towards the highest points in the tip and the tail. Rocker is great for float in deeper, fresher conditions and makes initiating, pivoting and washing out your turns easier, which is beneficial for skiers of all abilities.

Radius 

A ski’s turn radius is a shape determined by the difference in width between its waist and its tip/tail. Turn radius is expressed by a number in meters. A skinny-waisted ski with a much wider tip and tail is going to give you a smaller turn radius, resulting in a ski that carves easily and quickly and likes to be on its edges. A ski whose waist is closer in width to its tip and tail will have a longer turn radius, meaning it will turn slower but will be more stable at high speeds, favouring a more expert, aggressive skier.

Ability

Beginner/Intermediate:

If you’re starting out, or at an intermediate level, it’s always best to go with a ski that is slightly shorter- around chin to nose height is usually the right choice. At this length, your skis are going to be easier to turn and more manageable if you find yourself in a tricky position. Match a shorter length with a narrow waist width and a softer flex for an all-round lighter and more playful ski that is going to help you to progress quick. 

Intermediate/Advanced:

If you’re carving groomers with ease, venturing into powder, jumping and maybe learning more and more tricks, you’re probably developing from an intermediate to an advanced skier. At this level, choosing a longer ski, that reaches a point between your eyes and the top of your head, is going to open doors for you. This length provides great stability at higher speeds and in choppy snow, as well as ensuring better float in powder due to that extra surface area. You’ll also have a bit more ski and therefore a bit more energy to pop and rebound with. Match this length with a slightly wider waist width and you’re going to be able to ski in any snow conditions, all over the mountain.

Advanced/Expert:

You’re a skilled skier and like to take it to the mountain, whether that’s arcing high speed turns through choppy snow, sending it off cliffs into powder or stringing together tricks on the bigger features in the snowpark. At this level, the type of skiing you do is really going to dictate the length and width of ski you want to go for. For someone with a more freestyle orientated vision of skiing, it’s best to go with a ski that reaches around eyebrow-level. At this length it’s still going to be easy enough to spin with in the air, pretzel out of rails and ski switch with, but is also going to offer enough ski to pop, butter and stomp with. If you’re a more freeride focused skier, consider taking a ski that is longer than your height. This is going to give you maximum stability when skiing fast and aggressively on all types of changeable snow. The extra length is going to make stomping cliffs and airs easier whilst also providing you with that extra float in fresh snow.